Washing Machine Not Working?
Find Your Fault Below

1. Place towels on the floor and have a shallow tray or bowl ready - water will come out.
2. Locate the filter access panel. On most machines it's a small square or rectangular flap at the bottom front of the machine. Some models require a flat-bladed screwdriver to open.
3. You'll see a round cap (the filter) and often a small drain hose alongside it. Pull out the small hose, remove its cap, and let water drain into your tray.
4. Once the water has drained (this can take a couple of minutes), unscrew the filter cap anti-clockwise and remove it.
5. Clean the filter under running water. Remove any debris - hair, coins, buttons, lint. Check the filter housing inside the machine for anything that shouldn't be there.
6. Refit the filter (screw clockwise until firm - do not overtighten), replace the cap on the drain hose, and close the panel.
7. Run a short rinse-and-spin cycle to confirm the machine drains correctly.

Important: If coins or other items came out of the filter, they likely caused the blockage. If the filter was clean, proceed to the checks below.

1. Pull the machine forward slightly and inspect the drain hose running from the back of the machine to the wall standpipe or sink drain.
2. Ensure the hose is not kinked, crushed (by the machine or a wall), or twisted.
3. Check the hose end inserted into the standpipe is not too far in (more than 150mm) - this can create a siphoning effect that prevents proper draining.
4. If the hose connects to a sink drain trap, check the trap is not blocked with food debris or grease.

1. Open the door and run your fingers around the inside of the rubber door seal (the bellows).
2. Reach into the fold at the bottom of the seal. Small socks, facecloths, and baby clothes frequently become trapped here during a cycle.
3. A trapped item can partially block the drum outlet and cause the machine to fail to drain completely.
4. If an item is found: remove it, clean the seal, and run a short rinse cycle to test.

1. Open the door and check how the load is distributed. Modern machines have imbalance sensors - if the load is too heavy on one side, the machine will abort or reduce the spin to protect itself.
2. Redistribute the laundry evenly around the drum.
3. Large single items - a duvet, a heavy coat, a towel - are especially prone to imbalance. Add another item to balance the load, or wash heavy single items separately.
4. Close the door and restart a spin cycle.

If the machine now spins correctly, the fault was load imbalance. This is especially common with front-loading machines washing a single large item.

1. Look through the door glass. If water is visible in the drum, the machine has failed to drain - which will prevent it from spinning.
2. Follow the Not Draining guide above (clean the pump filter first).
3. Once the machine drains correctly, test a spin cycle.

Many "not spinning" faults are actually "not draining" faults. The machine won't spin because it's protecting itself from spinning with water still in the drum.

1. Open and firmly close the door. You should hear a distinct click as the latch engages.
2. If the door doesn't click shut, check for items of clothing caught in the door seal preventing proper closure.
3. Look at the door latch (the plastic hook on the door) and the door strike (the receiver in the machine body). Check for visible cracking or damage.
4. If the machine starts a cycle and then stops at spin without error - the door interlock (the electronic safety switch inside the door strike) may be failing intermittently.

A door interlock fault typically requires a replacement part. Not a DIY repair on most machines.

If the drum doesn't move at all when a cycle starts:

• No noise, drum static - likely a faulty motor or carbon brush failure (see below)
• Humming noise but drum won't turn - motor capacitor fault, or seized drum bearing preventing rotation
• Machine runs but drum turns very slowly only on slow speeds, not spin - worn carbon brushes (very common on machines 5+ years old with brushed motors)
• Belt-drive machines - if the drum moves slightly then stops, check the drive belt hasn't snapped or slipped off the motor pulley

1. Open the door and visually inspect the rubber door seal (the bellows) all the way around the opening.
2. Look for cracks, tears, splits, or holes - particularly at the bottom of the seal where it flexes most.
3. Also check the seal is correctly seated in the groove around the drum opening - it can dislodge on older machines.
4. Run a short low-temperature cycle and observe carefully with the door under a torch - water tracking down the door glass or appearing from the seal confirm this fault.

A split or torn door seal requires replacement. Not a DIY repair on most modern machines due to access complexity. Common on machines over 5–8 years old.

1. Inspect the pump filter cap at the bottom of the machine. If it has been recently cleaned, it may not have been fully tightened.
2. Ensure the filter cap is screwed fully clockwise until firm - it should be hand-tight with no play.
3. Also check the small drain hose (where fitted) alongside the filter - its cap must be firmly pushed in and its clip secured.
4. Run a short cycle and check for further leaking from this area.

If the filter area continues to leak even when firmly tightened, the filter housing seal may be worn or cracked. Engineer inspection required.

1. Pull out the detergent drawer completely (press the release tab, usually inside the drawer on the left side).
2. Rinse the drawer under warm water - remove all detergent residue and conditioner build-up. Pay attention to the siphon cap sections.
3. Inspect the drawer housing inside the machine. Use a damp cloth to clean any residue from the inside of the housing.
4. Check the water inlet nozzles inside the housing - they should spray water down into the drawer, not sideways. Limescale can redirect the flow and cause overspill.
5. Refit the drawer and run a cycle, watching the drawer area.

If the leak from the drawer area continues after cleaning, the water inlet valve directing water to the drawer section may be damaged or limescaled. Engineer repair required.

1. Carefully pull the machine forward from the wall and inspect the inlet hoses at the back.
2. Check both the connection at the back of the machine and the connection at the tap. Look for drips, mineral deposits (white marks), or damp patches on the hose itself.
3. If the hose connector at the machine is dripping: turn off the water, unscrew the connector, inspect the rubber washer inside. A flattened or cracked washer causes this leak and can be replaced with a standard plumbing washer.
4. If the hose body itself is cracked or split - replace the hose. Washing machine supply hoses should be replaced every 5–7 years regardless.

Do not overtighten hose connections - hand-tight plus a quarter turn is correct. Overtightening damages the washer and makes leaks worse.

If water is appearing from directly underneath the machine body (not from the front filter or back hoses), the source is likely an internal hose connection or the sump (the large rubber hose running from the drum to the pump). These are:

• Internal drum-to-sump hose with a loose or failed jubilee clip
• Cracked drum-to-sump hose (more common on machines over 10 years old)
• Failed internal detergent hose connection
• Outer drum hairline crack (rare but possible after bearing failure)

Internal leaks require the machine to be partially disassembled to access. Do not continue using the machine. Book an engineer for inspection - an undiagnosed internal leak will worsen and the water can damage the motor and control board.

1. Check the machine is switched on at the socket. Check the socket is working by plugging in another appliance.
2. Check the fuse in the plug (if accessible) - washing machine fuses are typically 13A.
3. Check the household consumer unit (fuse board) - the circuit for the washing machine may have tripped. If it has, this indicates a fault with the machine or circuit - do not simply reset and ignore it.
4. Check the machine's own power button / programme dial is in the correct position for starting a cycle.

1. Many modern washing machines have a child lock / key lock that disables all controls once activated.
2. Look for a key icon, padlock symbol, or the letters CL on the display.
3. To deactivate: on most machines, hold the child lock button (or the two buttons used to activate it) for 3–5 seconds until the lock symbol disappears from the display.
4. Check your machine's manual for the exact button combination - it varies by brand and model.

Common combinations: Bosch/Neff/Siemens - hold the spin speed and temperature buttons simultaneously for 5 seconds. AEG/Zanussi - hold the Start/Pause and Delay buttons together. Samsung - hold the Child Lock button for 3 seconds.

1. Open and firmly close the door. You should feel and hear a distinct click as the latch engages.
2. Check that no clothing is caught in the door or door seal preventing full closure.
3. Many machines display a door icon or error if the door interlock has not confirmed closure - check the display.
4. If the door clicks shut but the machine still won't start, the door interlock (electronic safety switch) may have failed. This requires an engineer.

1. Some machines require the dial to be turned to the "Off" or "0" position and back to a programme before a new cycle will start.
2. If a previous cycle was interrupted mid-way and the machine was switched off, it may be in a confused state. Turn the dial to Off, wait 30 seconds, then select a new programme and press Start.
3. Some machines require you to hold the Start/Pause button for 3+ seconds rather than a brief press.

1. Transport bolts are large bolts fitted at the rear of the machine during manufacture to lock the drum in place during transit. They must be removed before use.
2. If your machine is new, recently delivered, or has just been moved, check the rear for 3 or 4 large bolts (typically 10mm or 13mm hex head) and plastic spacers.
3. Remove all transport bolts before use. Store them - they are needed if the machine is ever moved again.
4. Running a machine with transport bolts fitted causes violent banging during spin and can permanently damage the drum bearings.

A machine run with transport bolts fitted even once may have sustained bearing damage. If the noise continues after removing the bolts, have an engineer check the bearings.

1. Banging during spin - especially with the whole machine rocking - is most commonly caused by a heavy, unbalanced load.
2. Open the machine (after the cycle ends or after pausing) and redistribute the laundry evenly around the drum.
3. Heavy single items - a duvet, jeans, towels - should be washed with another similar item to balance the load.
4. Also check the machine is level. Place a spirit level on top. Adjust the feet (most screw in/out) until the machine is level in all directions. Tighten the lock nuts on the feet after adjusting.

1. A rhythmic clicking, scraping, or rattling during washing (not just spin) often indicates a small item trapped in the drum or caught between the drum and the door seal.
2. Open the door and carefully run your hand around the inside of the door seal (bellows) - coins, bra underwires, and small plastic items frequently become trapped here.
3. Check your pockets before loading - coins are the most common cause of internal rattling and can also damage the drum paddles and pump impeller.
4. If the noise is a regular metallic clanging from inside the drum during rotation, a coin may have entered the drum-to-sump area via the seal. Stop the machine and have an engineer retrieve it - continued use risks pump damage.

Drum bearing failure is one of the most recognisable washing machine faults once you know what to listen for:

• Sound: A deep rumbling, roaring or grinding noise during spin - gets louder as spin speed increases. Like driving on a motorway with a worn wheel bearing.
• Test: Open the door and manually rotate the empty drum. If you feel roughness or hear grinding or rumbling as the drum turns, the bearings are worn.
• Additional sign: Check if there is black marks or residue around the door seal - this is bearing grease and shaft seal residue, confirming bearing failure.
• Secondary damage: Worn bearings put strain on the drum shaft seal. Eventually the shaft seal fails, allowing water into the bearing, which accelerates damage rapidly. Don't delay on this repair - the longer it runs, the more damage occurs.

Drum bearing replacement is a significant repair. The economic viability depends on the age and make of the machine - on a 3–6 year old quality machine (Bosch, AEG) it is almost always worth repairing. On a budget machine over 8 years old, replacement may be more cost-effective. We'll give you an honest assessment.

1. Look through the door glass. If water is visible in the drum, the machine's safety interlock will prevent the door from opening.
2. Follow the Not Draining guide (clean the pump filter) to drain the water first.
3. Once the drum is empty and the machine is not running, wait 2–3 minutes for the door interlock to release (most interlock mechanisms have a thermal delay).
4. Try the door again. It should now open.

1. After a cycle completes, the door interlock takes 1–3 minutes to release as it cools down. Wait at least 3 minutes after the cycle ends before trying the door.
2. If the door hasn't released after 5 minutes: turn the machine off at the mains, wait 30 seconds, turn back on. On many machines, a full power reset clears a stuck interlock.
3. Check the display for any error codes that may have prevented the cycle from completing properly - an incomplete cycle may leave the door locked.

If you need to open the door urgently during a cycle:

1. Press Pause/Stop and wait 3 minutes - do not attempt to force the door.
2. If the door still won't release and there is no water in the drum, check if your machine has an emergency release cord. On some machines (particularly Hotpoint, Indesit, and some Bosch models), a small plastic cord or tag is accessible via the pump filter panel at the bottom front of the machine. Pulling this cord manually releases the door interlock.
3. Check your machine's manual for the location of the emergency release on your specific model.

Never force a washing machine door open. Forcing the door can break the latch, split the door seal, and damage the interlock - turning a minor issue into a more expensive repair.

1. The rubber door seal (bellows) has a fold around its inner circumference that traps moisture, detergent residue, and eventually grows black mould.
2. Pull back the fold of the seal all the way around and inspect. You will likely find black or grey mould growth, particularly at the bottom.
3. Clean the seal with a solution of equal parts white vinegar and water, or a washing machine seal cleaner. Work the cleaning solution into all folds. An old toothbrush helps reach into the grooves.
4. For heavy mould growth: apply undiluted white vinegar or a diluted bleach solution (1 part bleach to 10 parts water), leave for 5 minutes, then clean thoroughly and rinse. Wear gloves.
5. After cleaning, leave the door open to allow the seal to dry fully.

1. Remove the drawer completely by pulling it out and pressing the release tab (usually a blue or red tab on the left side of the drawer).
2. Wash the drawer under warm water. Remove all detergent and conditioner residue - this is a food source for mould.
3. Pay attention to the siphon sections inside the drawer (the removable plastic dividers) - these trap liquid conditioner residue.
4. Clean inside the drawer housing in the machine with a damp cloth.
5. Refit the drawer and ensure it slides home fully.

1. Run a maintenance wash: an empty drum wash at 60°C or 90°C with either a branded washing machine cleaner or 250ml of white vinegar poured directly into the drum (not the drawer).
2. Select the longest wash programme available (often the Cotton 90° cycle) with no laundry in the machine.
3. This kills bacteria and mould inside the drum, heater, hoses, and pump.
4. Run a maintenance wash monthly to prevent recurrence - especially if you mainly use 30°C or 40°C programmes, which don't reach the temperature needed to kill bacteria.

Why does it keep coming back? Low-temperature washes (30°C–40°C) don't kill bacteria. Modern detergents are designed for cold water washing, which means less cleaning of the machine itself. A monthly 60°C+ maintenance wash is essential for machine hygiene.

• Leave the door open after every wash - allow moisture to escape rather than sitting in the drum and seal
• Leave the drawer slightly open after use - airflow prevents mould in the drawer housing
• Use the correct detergent dose - excess detergent leaves residue that feeds bacteria
• Don't leave wet laundry in the machine - transfer to the dryer or line promptly
• Run a 60°C+ programme at least once a month - weekly if you exclusively use 30°C washes
• Clean the filter quarterly - accumulated lint and debris contributes to odour

1. Select a 60°C cotton programme and start the machine. After approximately 15–20 minutes, carefully place your hand flat against the front of the machine door. The glass should feel warm to hot if the element is working.
2. Compare the warmth of the water you can feel through the door glass to tap-warm or hot - not just room temperature. Cold glass after 20 minutes of a 60° cycle confirms the element is not heating.
3. Note whether the machine completes full cycles - a failed thermostat (NTC sensor) can cause the machine to overheat and shut down mid-cycle, or to cycle without heating at all.

• Failed heating element - the most common cause. The element burns out over time, particularly if limescale has been allowed to accumulate around it. A burnt-out element is confirmed by continuity testing with a multimeter. Essex has moderately hard water - regular descaling significantly extends element life.
• NTC temperature sensor failure - the NTC (negative temperature coefficient) sensor tells the machine the current water temperature. If it fails, the machine may think the water is already hot and never activate the element, or may overheat and trip a thermal cutout.
• Thermal cutout tripped - a safety device that shuts off heating if the machine overheats (usually due to limescale on the element). Once tripped, it requires resetting or replacement - not something to attempt without experience.
• Carbon brush failure - on some machines, poor brush contact reduces power available to the heating circuit.
• Control board fault - the control board manages the heating programme. A failing board may not be sending the correct signal to activate the element even when it is electrically functional.

Heating element replacement is significantly less than a replacement machine, and economically viable on most machines under 10 years old - see our service fees for pricing.